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Pearls
Some cultured pearls are rarer than D-flawless diamonds! Sometimes it takes years to assemble a single well-matched strand of high-quality pearls. Only 5% of the annual world production of cultured pearls is considered “high quality”.
Since the dawn of man, pearls, with their mysterious glow and shimmering iridescence, have been one of the most highly prized and sought after gems in the world. Once known as the gem of the moon due to its close resemblance to the celestial body, pearls over the ages have come to symbolize the virtues of beauty, purity and love.
Long ago, before man unlocked the secret of coaxing pearls from oysters, pearls were considered such rare and valuable gems that they were reserved for only those of royal stature and vast wealth! Since the advent of pearl culturing at the turn of the twentieth century, pearls are no longer just for the rich and famous. Cultured pearls have become within the reach of all who seek to possess this gem of unique charm and unmatched beauty.
A natural pearl occurs when a foreign object, such as a parasite or a bit of broken shell, accidentally lodges itself in the soft inner body of an oyster, where it cannot be expelled. The oyster attempts to protect itself by secreting a smooth, hard crystalline substance around the irritant. This substance is often referred to as “nacre.” For as long as the irritant remains, the oyster will continue to secrete layer upon layer of nacre around it. After a few years, the irritant has become totally encased. The result is a lovely and lustrous pearl.
Nacre is composed of microscopic crystals, aligned perfectly, so that light passing along the axis of one is reflected and refracted by another to produce a warm and inviting glow of light and subtle color.
The nacre found in cultured pearls is formed by oysters in a nearly identical manner. The only difference is that man surgically implants the irritant – a small, round bead of polished shell, or in the case of a freshwater pearl, a small piece of body tissue from another mussel. Then it is up to the host oyster and Mother Nature to create their miracle.
Quality
Five factors that determine cultured pearl quality and price: Lustre Surface, Shape, Color and Size
When buying pearl strands, also note the roundness, symmetry and quality of knotting
LUSTRE: The combination of surface brilliance and a deep, almost three-dimensional glow, the lustre of a good quality pearl should be bright and not dull. You should be able to see your reflection on the surface of a pearl. Any pearl that appears too chalky or dull indicates low quality.
SURFACE: Cleanliness of the pearl’s surface refers to the absence of organic spots, bumps or indentations. Try to avoid pearls with cracks or chips as they will only get larger over time. Look for such damaging blemishes near the drill-hole of a pearl. A pearl that has a cleaner surface generally will be more valuable than a pearl with a more blemished surface.
SHAPE: Since cultured pearls are grown by oysters and subject to the whims of Mother Nature, it is rare to find a pearl that is perfectly round. While round pearls command the highest prices, asymmetrical, or baroque pearls have a unique charm at a more moderate price.
COLOR: Cultured pearls occur in colors from the white to black, and just about every color in between. Usually color is not a true indicator of pearl quality, though some colors command premium prices. The choice of color should be determined by the wearer’s personal preference or individual taste.
SIZE: Generally the larger the pearl the more valuable it will be. Sizes of cultured pearls range from 1mm for a very tiny Keshi pearl to as large as 24mm for a baroque South Sea cultured pearl. The average size pearl sold around the world is about 7mm.
Types of Pearls
AKOYA (cultivated in Japan and China)
Akoya pearls are the classic cultured pearls that come to mind when the word “pearl” is mentioned. Ranging in sizes from 3mm to 10mm, Akoya cultured pearls come in a wide range of colors and shapes. Akoya pearls are renown for their intense and brilliant lustre.
SOUTH SEA (cultivated in Australia, Indonesia, The Phillipines, Japan and Myanmar)
Considered one of the more exclusive of all cultured pearl varieties, South Sea pearls are known for their extraordinary size and satiny lustre. Ranging in color from silver-white to gold and in size from 8mm to 18mm and larger, South Sea pearls , due to their rarity, command premium prices.
TAHITIAN (cultivated in French Polynesia)
The exotic natural color palette of Tahitian pearls makes them one of the most unique of all cultured pearl varieties. Ranging in color from light grey to midnight black, with pistachio, aubergine and blue in between, Tahitian pearls generally range in size from 8mm to 17mm.
FRESHWATER cultivated in China, Japan and the U.S.)
Freshwater pears are easily cultivated from freshwater mussels rather than saltwater oysters. They are produced in great abundance,an dare therefore generally the most moderately priced of all cultured pearl varieties. Their unique shapes and gentle pastel colors make them perfect gems for those on a budget.
KESHI (cultivated in Japan, Australia, French Polynesia, Indonesia and the Philippines)
Keshi pearls, though not nucleated cultured pearls, are created by accident as a result of the culturing process and thus must be considered cultured pearls. Their unusual shapes and sizes are best used in unique jewellery designs.
MABE (cultivated in Japan, Australia, French Ploynesia, Indonesia and the Philippines)
Mabe pearls are hemispherical cultured pearls grown against the inside shell of an oyster rather than within the oyster’s body. They are generally used in ring, earring and pendant settings which cover their flat backs or reverse side.
Care of your Pearls
More delicate than any other gemstone or precious metal, cultured pearls need special care to ensure they will remain clean, bright and lustrous for generations to come.
Cosmetics, perfume and hairspray all contain chemicals that may dull the lustre of a pearl if subject to heavy and prolonged exposure.
Tips for Wear and Care:
- Pearls should be put on after the application of makeup, perfume and hairspray. It is always preferable to wipe down your pearls every week with a soft, moise cloth to remove any traces of these harmful elements.
- Cultured pearls should be kept away from hard or sharp jewellery that can scratch them. Pearls are best stored in a soft cloth pouch or a separately lined compartment of a jewellery box.
- Body oils, cosmetics and daily wear can weaken the silk thread on which your pearls are strung. If your pearls are worn often, it is best to have them re-strung at least once a year, making sure that there is an individual knot in between each pearl.
source: The Cultured Pearl Association of America.
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